Ghosts of Lanercost

I spent a morning recently exploring Lanercost Priory. It was a nice drive from my home in County Durham into the wilds of Cumbria, mostly along the scenic A69.

The voices of the Lanercost chroniclers were my constant companions while writing A King’s Gamble. Those monks didn't hold back when it came to the Scottish invaders of 1346, and they reserved a special kind of mockery for David Bruce himself, the so-called “Prince of Fools.”

The approach to Lanercost Priory

The old gateway to the Priory of Lanercost

A view of Lanercost Priory's ruins

They never missed a chance to lay into him. One of their favourite rumours was that baby David soiled the holy font during his christening. From that moment on, they gleefully dubbed him “David the Defecator.” A tough nickname to shake, even for a king.

The remains of a stone cross

The priory itself is mostly in ruins now, but it’s still a striking place. The site makes a big deal about Edward I’s visit (Longshanks, if you’re a Braveheart fan), but oddly glosses over the Scottish raids that wrecked the place. Which is strange, because it was those very raids, by both Robert and David Bruce, that led to its long decline. After 1346, Lanercost never fully recovered, and it limped along until Henry VIII finally put it out of its misery during the dissolution.

A view of Lanercost Priory from the graveyard

The church at Lanercost is still standing and still in use. It dates back to the 12th century and it’s a wonderful building, with a stunning roof and a beautiful old organ. Well worth a look.

If you’re up that way, maybe visiting Hadrian’s Wall, Lanercost is worth the stop. There’s free parking, a nice café, and a cracking little shop called Lanercost Gifts and Boutique. It’s run by Alison, who my wife and I had a good chat with. Lovely place.

All in all, it was great to put a “face” to a place I’ve quoted so often over the past few months. For me, it brought the ghosts of Lanercost to life.